Califorblah

Today we awoke to rain in North Las Vegas,  temps were in the high 70’s so we took advantage of the cooler temps and headed for Death Valley.  On the way over we saw temps rise to 86 degrees and drop to as low as 70 while under cloud cover the whole way.  We drove North to Beatty NV, fueled up and headed to Death Valley.   

The cloud cover never broke and as we descended into the valley we encountered unearthly wind, rain, low clouds and blowing sand.  

This is Death Valley?

The wind was amazing, pushing the Jeep side to side, sand whipping across the road.  We made it to Stovepipe Wells and picked up a Junior Ranger workbook.  We started the drive to Badwater Basin, the lowest point in the US, but were turned back due to flash floods crossing the roads.  In fact much of the park was closed due to the severe rain and wind.  The Rangers told us this happens about once every seven years so it was a rare time to be there.  The temperatures never got out of the low 80’s.

We left the rain and wind behind and headed for Sequoia National Park, nearly due west of us.  Unfortunately there is no road due west and we had to drive several hundred miles South, then West, then North again to get around the Sierra Nevada Mountains.  A long day, in fact we saw only one California State Park early in the day.  Maybe Arnold closed them all? (oops Arnold is no longer in charge)

On the way over the bare desert mountains gave way to grassy rolling hills dotted with trees, free of the desert at last!

As to camping, it seems the CA idea of camping is an RV park adjacent to freeways, as that is all we saw for hours.  Evening gave way to night and it was nearly 9:30 when I bailed on camping and found a motel.  Tyler had been sleeping in his seat for nearly an hour.

At any rate we found a Jeep Comanche appreciator in the motel lot.  A National Forest Firefighter told us he used to have one.  He was a National Forest Firefighter from Southern CA , assigned to cover Sequoia National Forest as the truck normally assigned to the area was airlifted to a fire 5-600 miles north.

Jerome

We got out to Jerome today with Uncle John and had some awesome homemade ice cream.  Checked out the town and headed back to Aunt Marie and Uncle John's.  

We had a great time in Cottonwood and it is obvious why they like it here.   Unfortunately we had miles to go before we sleep and we packed up the truck and got rolling.  We were heading for Las Vegas as I thought Tyler would enjoy the Pirate show at Treasure Island and the fountains at the Bellagio.

We encountered a bit of traffic on the way..

moooove over!

We spent a little time on Historic Route 66 too...

We made good time and stopped at the Hoover Dam.  We looked a bit suspicious so the Jeep was sent over for additional screening before we could drive over the dam.

Tyler, half in Nevada, half in Arizona.

We drove into Vegas, but it was not how I remembered.  My last visit was by air and shuttle right to a hotel, so I missed the 'rest' of the city.  That said we were not in Vegas long, we headed to North Las Vegas and found a room.  I had to get out of the heat.

I think the heat is getting to me too.  We drove all day in 100+ heat.  The truck handled it fine but despite all the water and fluids I drank a slight nagging headache couldn't be squashed.  We are heading North tomorrow, towards Death Valley, but hopefully cooler temperatures at altitude above the valley.

The Jeep is still slowly leaking differential oil from the rear axle.  I'll get some oil at Napa and keep it topped off until we can get it fixed.  I KNOW it wasn't leaking before I went to the quick oil change place.

Quiet Jeep

Today we went out for a nice breakfast, picked up the Jeep with newly installed muffler and visited the Tuzigoot National Monument.  Tyler earned another badge while we visited and photographed the ruins.  We also went over to the Clarkdale railroad museum.  Being a Junior Ranger has some pull.  The curator opened the museum just for us.

Tuzigoot is Apache for "crooked water" and is a Southern Sinagua village estimated to have been built between 1125 and 1400.  Unlike all the other ruins we have seen, the Sinagua built their village atop a hill, easily visible.   The ruins at Mesa Verde, Natural Bridges, and Navajo were all carefully hidden in Southern facing alcoves high above the valley floor.

Back at Aunt Marie and Uncle John's I tended to bills online, Tyler enjoyed some TV.  He has been without for most of the last month.

Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument

After a great nights sleep Tyler and I enjoyed some morning Frisbee before attempting to leave Coconinos National Forest.  Tyler spotted a horny toad watching our game.

About that volcanic soil,  it has the consistency of pea stone and sand.  That said, should you stray from the road even a little bit you sink.  This part of the Coconinos National Forest is a designated ORV use area.  Consequently the trail is braided by off road vehicle and motorcycle tracks in all directions.  I lost the road in the maze of tracks and within seconds found the Jeep buried to its axles.  What a way to start the day.  I had Tyler gather small rocks while I aired down our tires to improve traction and broke out our shovel to provide a path for our tires.  I placed Tyler's gathered rocks behind our tires and was able to back the Jeep back on to the "road".  All told we were freed in 15 minutes.  We retraced our tracks back to the main road through the forest and headed to Sunset Crater Volcano, the source of all this volcanic material.

We walked a lava field near the crater before heading to the Visitor Center.  Having so much recent experience with volcanic materials, Tyler was able to quickly complete his Junior Ranger work.

 

 

 

On our way to Cottonwood to see Aunt Marie and Uncle John we found an oil change place and had the Jeep serviced,  I watched them closely and they were thorough.  That said after lunch I found the Jeep to be leaking from the front and rear axles.   I immediately drove back to the oil change place and had them reinspect their work.  They were quick to point out it was leaking from areas they hadn't worked on.  No smoking gun, I left somewhat frustrated as I know nothing was leaking prior to their work.  Checking for leaks is one of my daily inspections along with tires, belts, cooling and oil. 

We drove down route 89A into Sedona and on to Cottonwood.  I missed a lot of the scenery in Sedona as I was fixated on finding a muffler shop.  My band-aid approach had failed as while on the lift at the oil change place I noticed there was now a 3"x2" hole in the muffler.

We made it to Aunt Marie's and Uncle John's around 3:30PM.  Uncle John showed me to a muffler shop and we left the truck for the night.

Navajo Nation

Drove a lot of miles today and saw neither an auto parts store or garage to get the oil changed.  The truck is obnoxiously loud, especially when driving into a National Monument.  I feel like I am violating the space with noise.

We continued South today and made it 479 miles since our last fill up.  Our worst mileage yet, just over 20mpg, conversely our best was the tank before, 24.8 crisscrossing the Continental Divide.  I know our day between Canyonlands and Moab is responsible as it took us eight hours to traverse the 34 miles of canyon and washes.

out of gas.......

As usual we wandered as we drove and detoured towards any National Park or Monument we saw signs for.  The first was Navajo National Monument in Arizona.  We explored the Visitor Center and took in a short movie before hiking the overlook to the ruins.

There's a village down there.

a closer look...

Tyler was awarded another badge and we were off to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon.  We checked out the Watchtower and museum.  The Watchtower was decorated with beautiful native art.

Next as it was getting late, we stumbled upon Wupatki National Monument.  Since Arizona doesn’t observe daylight savings we gained an hour and stopped to check out more amazing ruins.

"blowhole"

We camped just outside the Monument in the Coconina National Forest.  All the soil around here is crumbled volcanic pumice.  Tomorrow we visit the source.

35.36121,-111.43283

When is an arch..not?

Last night’s site was called Ken’s Lake.  It was quiet and only two other sites were in use.  The rain came in around 9PM and lasted well into the night.  Good sleeping temperatures at last.  So good in fact that we slept till nearly 8AM!  We spent a little time exploring the falls this morning. 

We were undecided as to where to go next then remembered we never completed Tyler’s Ranger work at Canyonlands National Park.  We drove the 34 mile road in once again although we didn’t stop to read the newspaper this time.  Once Tyler had taken his oath we had time to check out the exhibits and movie at the visitor center.   It still amazes me how much the geology varies over a couple hundred miles around here.  All of it shaped by water (predominately) wind and time.

Nearing lunch when we left we set the GPS for Cottonwood, AZ and decided to stop someplace along the way.  At an A&W Root-beer restaurant we uploaded yesterday’s blog and tried to upload a few pictures.  Back on track we saw signs for Natural Bridges National Monument.  Detour.

A bridge, not an arch?  I suppose they really are one in the same, but the rock, and erosion patterns are so different that Arches N.P and Natural Bridges N.M. can’t be compared to one another.  We set to work on Tyler’s (nth+1) Badge where “n” = how many he had yesterday.  You do the math.  “Light bulb!” 20$ cash to whoever comments with the correct Badge and/or Patch number.

Rules:  I am sole authority in this contest.  All decisions are final.  Duplicates count as one, i.e.: if Ty got a Badge and Patch for a location visited it counts as one.  Employees of the U.S. Department of the Interior are not eligible.  Must be at least 18 years old to win.  Winner must claim prize in person within 30 days.  Only one entry per person.  Contest is now closed.

We had a nice hike down to Sipapu Bridge and took several photos.  Tyler is getting good at climbing up and down ladders and the numerous carved rock steps we have been encountering.  On an aside he’s getting pretty good with the Frisbee too!  We stopped at another one of the overlooks in the park and spotted a set of ruins way in the distance.  Why build there?  Why leave?

We made it, noisily, back to the Visitor Center and Tyler took his oath. 

Nearing closing time we chatted with one of the volunteers and Rangers about the park, our travels and what it is like working and volunteering at a National Park/Monument.

As they closed up we departed, noisily, for the Deer Flats BLM public lands to camp. The road was slick from the days deluge and signs warned that it was impassible when wet.  We’ll see if we can get out in the morning.  We found a nice spot a few miles in at (37.63452,-109.92134).

a wrong turn down this wash

 

The truck is sounding rough.  A small scape on the thin muffler wall has turned to a noisy rattling tear.  I think I can subdue it with some aluminum flashing and high temperature tape, tomorrow’s errand.  Still on the lookout too get that oil change too.  I am reluctant to trust Jiffy-Lube or the like but may, as getting it done is most important.  I’ll just thoroughly check their work after.

Escape from Canyonlands / Arches

I slept poorly last night due to the heat and was up early, anxious to get on the road.  It had been two hours of driving to get to this point for camp (38.34925,-109.65400) 

Little did I know the most challenging part of the road was yet to come.  We drove another six hours to escape the canyons.  It really felt like we were driving through the Grand Canyon, Canyonlands and Arches.  We were experiencing the geology and wildness of the land first hand.  No RV’s,  no busses, no other people,  no paved walkway telling you were to walk or point your camera.  We tread lightly, and stayed on the road.  It is a remote area and a very rough road, few others attempt.  In fact from the point of our camp we saw no other fresh vehicle tracks on the road.  We were the first, at least in the last three or four days.

long way down

 

Hurrah! we're almost out!

We did not escape unscathed though, a few nasty scrapes along the frame, our muffler is a bit louder now and my previously damaged bumper took some tough hits.  The bumper was on my wish list for replacement/upgrade anyway.

Once in Moab we stopped by Moab Cyclery and checked in on guide extrodenair Jacques Hadler of Escape Adventures Tours.  Jacques is the best in the biz as far as I am concerned and have been fortunate enough to have done two six day mountain bike tours with him as guide.  Jacques recommended some good eats and pointed us in the direction of good camping in the mountains, away from the heat.

After lunch we took the short drive North to Arches National Park. It was hot, 102+, better than 110 degrees in the truck.  We drank a lot of water today and emptied our misting spray bottles a couple times.   The geology is amazing here.  Too much to capture on film or describe.  We checked out Balancing Rock and the Windows before the heat got to be too much.  Back at the visitors Center Tyler earned another Badge and I purchased another patch for him.   

They had drinking water available here and we topped of the water tank plus our water bottles.  Over nine gallons total, that should last a little while.

 
Back into town  we stocked up on fruit and other staples before attempting to find access to the National Forest.  I followed Jacques directions to the best of my recollection, however I do not recollect as well as I used to and we drove into BLM land and came upon a gated ranch.  There very some cool mine cutouts overhead so we snapped a quick pic before backtracking to the last fork. 

 The other trail was named “Steel Bender”.    We skipped that road as I didn’t like the sound of it.  We drove back down to a campground I ignored on the way in.  Turns out it was managed by the BLM and was only $12 to camp.  It was nice, mostly empty and had this faux waterfall behind it aptly named Faux Falls.  The water fall was created by blasting a tunnel through the rock to a creek on the other side.  

We turned in just as the rain started.  The temperature quickly dropped to comfortable sleeping temps.  Yeah!